The island of Bali is rapidly establishing itself as a fascinating new frontier for viticulture. With only six wineries cultivating 440 hectares in 2022, these pioneer producers have transformed the challenges posed by the tropical climate and volcanic geology into a unique opportunity. The result is wines with a distinctive profile, successfully combining tradition with an authentic expression of the terroir.
Bali’s Terroir: Climate, Volcanic Soil and the Art of Managing Vineyards
Bali is located just 8° south of the Equator (a low-latitude region), with high levels of strong solar radiation per annum and similar daylight hours (heat and sunlight) throughout all seasons of the year, a land of perpetual summer. With high levels of solar radiation and consistent daylight hours year-round, vines experience a short and intense growing season, with a low diurnal and seasonal temperature range. This results in grapes with higher sugar levels, lower acidity, and riper flavours than those grown in cooler climates. For red grapes, this also means more intense colour and softer, riper tannins.
The island’s climate is humid tropical, with temperatures around 27-30°C year-round and distinct wet and dry seasons, which necessitate a fundamentally different approach to viticulture. Within the tropics, differences in elevation and rainfall can hugely influence both quality and quantity of the grapes. To mitigate the heat and humidity in Bali, most vineyards are planted in the Buleleng region in the north-west of the island, where higher elevations (up to 300 metres) and cooling ocean breezes offer a much-needed respite. Typically, in areas with pronounced wet and dry seasons, fully ripe grapes can be produced only in the dry season because the grapes ripen as temperatures rise, opposite to regions where the climate is more temperate, where the ripening process proceeds as temperatures fall.
The soils, mainly volcanic, enrich the vineyards with nutrients (minerals and microelements), giving the wines freshness, a saline edge and lean texture. In tropical regions, it is possible for the vines to adopt an evergreen growth habit, resulting in two or three crops a year, but some producers focused on quality are increasingly looking for a single crop annually, despite the extra-cost involved. With regards to vineyard management, it is interesting to highlight that vines are pruned twice to force dormancy; pruned long to produce grapes in the dry season then pruned short for only vegetative growth in the rainy season. Irrigation systems, canopy management and training systems (e.g., overhead pergolas) are essential to control humidity, prevent sunburn and therefore secure healthy grapes.
International, Local and Hybrid Grape Varieties in Bali
High humidity combined with high temperatures, especially after rainfall, can be the ideal situation for the spread of fungal diseases. Therefore, the choice of varieties to be planted is crucial; hybrids varieties such as PIWIs, are widely used to ensure reliable harvests, being fungus and diseases resistant vines, a desired characteristic in regions with high humidity.
Indonesia’s original vineyards were planted with French table wine grape varieties, such as Alphonse Lavallée (Ribier), to take advantage of its sturdiness and adaptability, despite not being ideal for high quality wine production; it remains one of the most planted varieties and nowadays could be considered a “local” grape variety. Probolinggo Biru, a white grape variety likely introduced from India is being grown for sparkling wine production. Other varieties are cultivated on the island, such as Vitis Vinifera (e.g., Syrah, Chardonnay, Merlot) and PIWIs (e.g., Solaris, Muscat Bleu).
The Protagonists of Balinese Viticulture: Hatten Winery and Sababay
Hatten Winery (founded 1994) is the pioneer of Balinese viticulture, blending local and international grapes. Renowned for traditional method sparkling wines and the use of the Probolinggo biru grape, their evergreen vines produce fruit year-round (up to three vintages per year), resulting in non-vintage wines.
Sababay Winery (founded 2010) is the second largest producer; they are innovative and focused on sustainability and exports, producing structured reds, Charmat-method sparkling wines, and dessert wines, rather than spirits and liqueurs.
Tasting notes
Hatten Winery – Tunjung – Brut – Traditional Method – NV
Muscat Saint Vallier, Colombard, Probolinggo Biru
A radiant pale lemon wine in colour with a long-lasting creamy mousse. On the nose, a delicate bouquet of white florals and citrus blossom mingles with vibrant notes of green apple, pear, and a subtle hint of pastry, fresh brioche. On the palate, it is dry and lively, with a crisp and refreshing acidity, and flavours of zesty lemon and ripe apple lead to a clean, toasty finish. This wine is the perfect partner for vegetable tempura, where its effervescence and acidity will cut through the richness.
Hatten Winery – Jepun – Rosé – NV
Syrah, Malvasia Nera, Muscat Bleu, Muscat Saint Vallier
The wine shows a delicate and luminous pale salmon hue. The bouquet is charmingly aromatic, offering a lively mix of red fruits like wild strawberry, red cherry, and pomegranate, underscored by a zesty grapefruit and lime zest lift. On the palate, it is off-dry with juicy acidity and a playful hint of candied fruit, leading to a clean, medium-length finish. This versatile rosé is an ideal pairing for the savoury and slightly sweet flavours of nasi goreng, creating a harmonious culinary experience.
Sababay – Reserve Red 2023
Cabernet Sauvignon, Alphonse Lavallée
A deep ruby wine in colour with youthful purple reflections. The nose is inviting, showcasing an intense concentration of ripe dark cherry and blackberry, intertwined with a touch of savoury spice, black pepper, smoke and vanilla. It is dry, showing a firm structure with smooth, integrated tannins in a medium body. A wine of depth and character that pairs with the richness of braised pork in soy sauce.
Sababay – Reserve White 2023
Chardonnay, Muscat Saint Vallier
A brilliant medium lemon wine in colour with golden reflections. On the nose, the aroma is expressive, bursting with tropical fruit notes of pineapple and ripe mango, complemented by zesty lemon and a delicate floral lift of jasmine. A subtle hint of vanilla adds an extra layer of complexity. On the palate, it is dry and balanced, with refreshing acidity and medium body. This white is a fantastic pairing for the fresh and vibrant flavours of a classic nicoise salad.
The Future of Balinese Wine
Balinese viticulture is a unique reality, a perfect blend of volcanic soil, tropical climate, and a pioneering spirit. By embracing challenges and adapting techniques, producers are crafting fresh, aromatic wines able to reflect the terroir. Tasting these wines offers a glimpse into an unexpected wine world, a vibrant scene that is far from traditions, but full of exciting potential.
For more information on the wines tasted, here is the producers’ website:
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