The event “La Grande Bellezza“, organised by WinesCritics in Milan, offered the opportunity for professionals and enthusiasts to get connected with famous Italian and emerging wine producers, thanks to a walk aroung wine tasting and some masterclasses.
The masterclass “Cupido tra Italia e America” was a perfect chance to assess the evolution of one of the greatest Italian wines: Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G. Riserva Poggio alle Mura from Banfi. The vintages tasted were: 2018 – 2017 – 2016 – 2015 – 2011 – 2007.
The Winery
The Banfi estate is located in the southern part of the municipality of Montalcino and stretches for about 2,800 hectares; one third of which is vineyard while the rest promotes biodiversity by being dedicated to olive groves, wheat, truffles, plums and woods.
The Growing Environment
The grapes to produce this wine are sorted from vineyards located on hillsides with steep slopes; this location guarantees a series of advantages: optimisation of sunlight exposure to reach the optimal ripeness of the fruit, adequate ventilation to ensure healthy fruit, and high diurnal range to develop a wide aromatic spectrum. The vineyards are planted at a density of about 4,200 – 5,500 plants/ha with yields of 60q/ha.
The soil is sedimentary in origin, characterised by red clay, stones and pebbles that are useful to facilitate the water drainage.
The Grape Variety and Winemaking
Sangiovese: this is a thin skinned, early budding and late ripening black grape variety. The vineyards are on steep slopes, with good sunlight exposure. The south or south-east aspects have the best chances to get ripe fruits, but due to global warming, growers are trying to choose vineyards at a higher altitude or in more shaded areas.
The diverse clones of Sangiovese, used to make Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G. Riserva Poggio alle Mura, are a careful company selection, started in the 1980’s, with the aim of having more opened bunches, with smaller berries and thicker skin, so that the wines are deeper in colour, have more intense flavours and are more disease resistant.
The temperature-controlled fermentation (25-30°C) takes place in vats, made of stainless steel and oak, then 40% of the wine matures in casks and the rest in barrique for at least 30 months.
Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G. Riserva – Poggio alle Mura – 2018
100% Sangiovese
2018 was a rainy vintage with low levels of sunlight. The wine is elegant with floral notes.
- Look: medium ruby colour.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of violet, rose, iris, red orange, black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, black pepper, tobacco and herbal notes.
- Taste: dry, medium (+) acidity, high alcohol, high ripe tannin, medium (+) flavour intensity, medium (+) finish.
- Pairing: pici with sausage and mushrooms sauce.
Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G. Riserva – Poggio alle Mura – 2017
100% Sangiovese
2017 was a very dry and hot vintage that required emergency irrigation. The wine is very powerful and enveloping, the tannin is still grippy.
- Look: medium ruby colour.
- Smell: pronounced aroma intensity of rose, lavender, red orange, black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, plum, black pepper, coffee and tobacco.
- Taste: dry, medium (+) acidity, high alcohol, high grippy tannin, pronounced flavour intensity, medium (+) finish.
- Pairing: thrushes with juniper sauce.
Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G. Riserva – Poggio alle Mura – 2016
100% Sangiovese
2016 was an ideal vintage and this wine was the first to be bottled without any filtration.
- Look: deep ruby colour.
- Smell: pronounced aroma intensity of red cherry, black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, blueberry, plum, black pepper, liquorice, coffee and tobacco.
- Taste: dry, high acidity, high smooth tannin, full body, pronounced flavour intensity and long finish.
- Pairing: Pienza sheep cheese.
Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G. Riserva – Poggio alle Mura – 2015
100% Sangiovese
2015 was an ideal vintage with regular interchange between rainfall and sunshine.
- Look: deep ruby colour.
- Smell: pronounced aroma intensity of red cherry, black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, plum, black pepper, liquorice coffee and tobacco.
- Taste: dry, high acidity, high velvety tannin, full body, pronounced flavour intensity and long finish.
- Pairing: jugged venison with porcini mushrooms.
Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G. Riserva – Poggio alle Mura – 2011
100% Sangiovese
2011 was a vintage with temperatures higher than average. The wine developed tertiary notes, but it shows an unexpected refreshing acidity.
- Look: deep garnet colour.
- Smell: pronounced aroma intensity of red cherry, black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, plum, prune, black pepper, vanilla, cloves, liquorice, coffee, chocolate, tobacco and forest floor.
- Taste: dry, medium (+) acidity, high plush tannin, full body, pronounced flavour intensity and long finish.
- Pairing: stewed wild boar.
Brunello di Montalcino D.O.C.G. Riserva – Poggio alle Mura – 2007
100% Sangiovese
2007 was the first vintage of this wine that was born to match the North America’s market demand.
- Look: deep garnet colour with tawny shades on the rim of the glass.
- Smell: pronounced aroma intensity of red cherry, black cherry, blackberry, blackcurrant, plum, prune, black pepper, vanilla, cloves, liquorice, coffee, chocolate, tobacco, forest floor and leather.
- Taste: dry, medium (+) acidity, high firm tannin, full body, pronounced flavour intensity and a long finish.
- Pairing: braised wild boar shoulder with prunes and leeks.
The vertical tasting showed how the style of this wine has changed over time. Compared to the other samples, the 2007 and 2011 vintages are characterised by a very deep colour, softness and backing spicey aromas and flavours due to the high percentage of new oak during maturation. These choices were made to catch the taste and demand of the North American market in the 2000s.
For more information on the wine tasted, here is the producer’s website: Banfi