In the heart of Lunigiana, nestled between Liguria and Tuscany, lies one of the most compelling interpreters of Vermentino, Cantina Lunae.
The Colli di Luni D.O.C. is a wine-growing area with an undeniable vocation, spanning the provinces of La Spezia and Massa Carrara. With viticultural roots dating back to ancient times, this land remains remarkably contemporary in its identity. At its core is the town of Luni, steeped in a winemaking tradition that began with the Greeks and Romans. Pliny the Elder himself praised the wines of this region in his Naturalis Historia.
The Growing Environment
The landscape of Colli di Luni is a patchwork of small vineyard plots interspersed with olive groves and Mediterranean scrub, overlooking the Gulf of La Spezia. The vines are protected by the Apuan Alps and benefit from a unique microclimate: marked diurnal range, gentle sea breezes blowing the vineyards, and a diversity of soil adding complexity to the wines.
The climate is temperate Mediterranean – ideal for enhancing the aromatic profile of the region’s grape varieties.
Grape Variety
Vermentino: it is a white grape variety with early-to-mid budding and medium ripening. It is vigorous and fairly productive yet reveals its best qualities in breezy locations with poor, well-drained soils. Widely planted in Liguria, Sardinia, and Tuscany, it is also cultivated in Corsica and Provence. Recognised synonyms include Pigato, Favorita, and Rolle.
The Producer
Cantina Lunae is run by the Bosoni family and it has made, respect for the land, its guiding principle. Its 65 hectares of vineyards are cultivated according to organic farming practices, focusing on native varieties: Vermentino, Albarola, Vermentino Nero, Malvasia, Pollera Nera, and Massareta.
This environmental commitment culminated in the creation of a new, eco-sustainable winery where architecture harmonises with nature.
Vinification techniques are designed to preserve the identity of each grape variety, employing temperature-controlled fermentation in stainless steel and ageing in large barrels.
The Tasting
Etichetta Nera – 2019 – Colli di Luni D.O.C.
100% Vermentino
A pure Vermentino, first produced in 1992, and now a signature label of the winery. The wine is the result of a meticulous selection of the best vineyard plots; the grapes are hand-picked in the early morning. After crushing, the grapes undergo a period of about 8 hours of cold maceration, followed by fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. Ageing on fine lees lasts approximately 4 months.
- Look: deep lemon with gold reflections.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of floral notes (acacia), citrus fruit (lime, lemon), stone fruit (peach, apricot), complemented by Mediterranean herbs (rosemary, oregano) and a saline touch.
- Taste: dry, medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium body, medium finish.
- Pairing: fried calamary, shrimps and zucchini.
Cavagino – 2023 – Colli di Luni D.O.C
100% Vermentino
Produced from one of the first Vermentino Crus on the hills of Colli di Luni. Grapes from this plot are vinified separately, undergoing a period of around 12 hours of cold maceration. 60% of the must is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks, while the other 40% is vinified in barriques. Ageing on fine lees lasts about 6 months.
- Look: deep lemon with gold reflections.
- Smell: pronounced aroma intensity of floral notes (acacia, chamomile), citrus fruit (lime, lemon, orange), stone fruit (peach, apricot), and spicy touches (vanilla), enhanced by Mediterranean herbs (oregano), with subtle toasted and saline nuances.
- Taste: dry, high acidity, medium alcohol, medium body, long finish.
- Pairing: baked sea bass with mediterranean herbs.
Two wines that narrate the same story in different tones: an extraordinary grape variety and a terroir that is ideal.
For more information on the wine tasted, here is the producer’s website: Cantina Lunae