The wine I will describe in this article is produced in Manduria, Apulia, with a limited edition (2,500 bottles for the 2021 harvest) by Cantine Pliniana.
Until quite recently, most of the Apulian wine was exported to the regions in the North of Italy and abroad to add body and alcohol strength to wines made there. Today, things have changed, and alongside the production of easy drinking wine, still important for the economy of the region, certain producers are raising the quality of their wines, mainly made from red grape varieties and native varieties, with the aim of gaining success from consumers.
In the latter group of producers, Cantine Pliniana can absolutely be included. It is a co-operative that, in its history of over 60 years, has played a vital role in the region for the development of quality viticulture. Nowadays, thanks to the investments made on itself, the company aims to innovate and continue its path towards growth and production of excellence.
The Winery
Cantine Pliniana was founded in 1964, by the initiative of the Cooperativa Agricola Pliniana, to coordinate the efforts of winegrowers; its goal was the optimisation of the production processes, especially the winemaking.
Today, Cantine Pliniana is a family of more than 360 members, who work on a total area of about 900 hectares of vineyards, in the area of Primitivo di Manduria D.O.P.
The wines of Cantine Pliniana have personality; they are made following the tradition, selecting the ideal plot that suits the grape varieties best, as well as meticulous care of the vineyard and careful work done in the winery.
The Growing Environment
Apulia is the “heel” of Italy, that stretches for about 350 kilometres and is surrounded on three sides by the Adriatic Sea and Ionian Sea.
The climate is warm Mediterranean, with mild winters characterised by low rainfall levels and hot and dry summers cooled by breezes, thanks to the proximity of the sea.
The vineyards where Cantine Pliniana sources the grapes for its wines are in the Manduria area, on the flat area that overlooks the sea; the soil there is thin, made of limestone, clay and iron.
The Grape Variety
Primitivo: this is a very productive, early budding and early ripening black grape variety. Its name comes from its early ripening characteristic. The variety is probably of Croatian origin and it is also known as Zinfandel. In Apulia, it has always been used for the production of blended wine, but since the 1990s it has been rediscovered and vinified as single variety and has had a great commercial success.
Being early ripening, sugars accumulate very quickly in the berries, and this, combined with the tendency of the berries to shrivel near harvest time results in high levels of alcohol in the wines. The bunches contain ripe and some unripe berries, thus requiring careful selection if the aim is for high quality wine production. Old vineyards in Puglia are typically bush vine trained (Alberello) at low densities; this ensures protection from heavy sunlight for the bunches and optimises the use of the scarce water available during the growing season.
Primitivo di Manduria D.O.C. – Limited Edition – 2021
100% Primitivo
The vines are grown on clay and iron rich soil, and are mainly bush trained (Alberello) at low yield. The grapes are late-harvested and undergo thorough pre-fermentation maceration as they reach the winery. Fermentation takes place at 25-27°C in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks and lasts for about 20 days. Pumping over and rack and return are performed every day. The wine undergoes malolactic conversion and spends some time on the lees before being bottled.
- Look: deep ruby.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of cherry, strawberry, redcurrant, black cherry, plum, cherry jam and plum.
- Taste: off-dry, medium (+) acidity, high alcohol, medium ripe tannin, full body, medium (+) aroma intensity and long finish.
- Pairing: spicy duck breast.
For more information on the wine tasted, here is the producer’s website: Cantine Pliniana