So, you have the framework, the classifications, the grapes, the geography. Now, for the part that actually matters when the glass is in front of you: what makes one Cava taste taut and vertical while another feels broad and generous? Beyond ageing requirements and technical regulations, the style of a Cava is deeply influenced by where the grapes grow and by the choices made in the cellar.
Altitude, soils and blending decisions can dramatically affect the final result, turning the same Traditional Method into wines of remarkably different character.
If the first chapter introduced the framework of Cava, this second one explores the details that give it identity.
Why Altitude Matters in Cava
Altitude is one of the most important variables in sparkling wine production. Higher vineyards generally experience cooler temperatures and wider temperature diurnal range, slowing down grape ripening.
In practice, this translates directly into higher acidity, more restrained aromatics, and a longer ripening season that allows flavour complexity to build without the grape losing its characteristics.
For Cava, this balance is particularly important. Sparkling wines rely on freshness and subtle aromas, and grapes harvested too ripe may lose the tension required for elegant, long-lived styles.
Parellada perhaps demonstrates this relationship more clearly than any other traditional Cava grape.
Often planted at higher elevations within the Penedès area, it expresses itself through subtle floral aromas, citrus notes and a naturally fresh profile that contributes refinement and lightness to the blend.
Mascaró – When Parellada Becomes the Protagonist
In contemporary Cava production, Xarel·lo often receives much of the attention thanks to its structure and ageing potential. Yet Mascaró offers an alternative perspective, placing Parellada at the centre of its philosophy. The family has also found that their estate Grenache has distinctive and unique characteristics, using it for both rosé and white Cavas.
The family estate of “Mas Miquel” lies at high altitude, approximately 450 metres above sea level, in Aiguamúrcia, in the Alt Camp area of Tarragona. The 170-hectare estate has only 35 hectares under vine. The remaining land is Mediterranean forest, home to 30 beehives maintained by the family to support local biodiversity. Before the Mascaró family took over, Mas Miquel‘s vines were part of the Cistercian monastery of Santes Creus, dating back to the 12th century.
The vineyards are organically managed and harvested entirely by hand, with grapes transported in small crates to preserve fruit integrity. Whole clusters go straight to the press, with only free-run juice being kept, and fermentation temperatures are held low to preserve the delicate aromatics before they have a chance to fade.
The second fermentation and extended lees ageing add structure; enough to give the wine backbone, but not enough to hide the Parellada‘s natural delicacy. Their Cavas are aged for a minimum of two years.
Pure – Cava de Guarda Superior Reserva – Brut Nature – Mascaró
90% Parellada, 10% Xarel·lo
Pale lemon with a greenish glint and a persistent, fine bead. The nose is immediately engaging; white blossom and a whiff of fresh yeast give way to a gentle buttery note and a squeeze of citrus. It is restrained without being austere. On the palate, the Brut Nature dosage (zero added sugar) keeps things honest, with a bright acidity that carries the wine through to a clean, saline finish.
Its versatility at the table makes it particularly suited to anchovies, jamón ibérico or seafood-based appetisers.
The Art of Blending – Knowing What the Wine Needs
In sparkling wine, blending is not a compromise; it is the whole game. No single variety does everything you need: Macabeo brings floral elegance, Xarel·lo contributes texture and grip, Parellada adds aromatic lift and freshness. The skill lies in knowing what the wine needs, and in what proportion, for the style the producer wants to achieve.
Increasingly, however, Cava producers are also introducing international varieties such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir to create different stylistic interpretations. The result is a more plural category; one where a bone-dry estate Parellada and a Chardonnay-driven prestige cuvée can both legitimately show the same DO on the label.
Elyssia – Cava Gran Cuvée Brut – Freixenet
40% Chardonnay, 30% Macabeo, 20% Parellada, 10% Pinot Noir
Look at the proportions and Freixenet‘s intent is immediately clear: Chardonnay-dominant, with Pinot Noir for structure – this is Cava in a decidedly international idiom. The Chardonnay comes from Freixenet’s La Freixeneda family estate, and the Pinot Noir is sourced from Mas Bernich at Masquefa in the Alt Penedès.
The wine is aged on the lees for a minimum of 18 months and shows acacia blossom and honey on the nose, with ripe pineapple and white peach. The palate is rounder and more generous than a traditional Macabeo-led blend, with a creamy texture and a honey-toned finish. The Pinot Noir contributes body, lending a soft structural depth that extends the finish elegantly.
An adaptable gastronomic partner, it pairs particularly well with shellfish, delicate risottos and lightly flavoured fish dishes.
Tradition in Motion
What is striking about Cava just now is that the change is not coming from a break with tradition; it is coming from within it.
Producers are rediscovering native varieties, highlighting specific vineyard sites and embracing organic viticulture while simultaneously applying increasingly precise and modern winemaking techniques.
What is emerging is a category with genuine range: from single-estate Parellada Cavas that could hold their own in any serious sparkling wine tasting, to international-style blends designed for broader appeal. Neither approach is wrong. They are just speaking different languages, aiming for people with different expectations.
Producers featured in this article:
If you enjoyed this article, you might also like:
- Cava – A Guide to Spain’s Traditional Method, New Zoning and Tasting Notes – The Framework Behind the Category, From Grape Varieties to the New Classification System.
- When Cava is not Cava Anymore – Corpinnat and the Producers Redefining Penedès Sparkling Wine – What Does the Sparkling Wine From This Corner of Catalonia Look Like?
Browse all sparkling wine articles in the Sparkling Wine section.