Can Chardonnay taste this pure? In the northern region of Burgundy, where winemakers battle a cool continental climate and the soil is made of ancient limestone, Chablis offers a startlingly dry and sharp expression of the world’s most popular white grape.
Chablis is the name of the town in the department of the Yonne between Paris and Beaune; it is also synonymous with a unique terroir of the northernmost part of Burgundy, overlooking the banks of the river Serein. Here is born a refined interpretation of Chardonnay, a dry and sharp wine that is able to offer extreme freshness and purity which you cannot find anywhere else.
Chablis: A Troubled History
This appellation has been the subject to ups and downs in its popularity. Firstly, In the nineteenth century it had huge success thanks to its proximity to the important market represented by the city of Paris and the ease of transport by river. However, the arrival of Powdery Mildew and Philloxera, combined with competition from southern France favoured by the new railway line Paris-Lyon-Marseille, marked a dramatic drop in demand, with a collapse of the vineyard area from 40,000 to 500 hectares.
The area under vines has slowly increased again since 1950 to reach the current 5,800 hectares. This has been a “renaissance” due to the combination of two factors: the growing consumer preference for fresh wines and the ability of winegrowers to cope adequately with spring frosts with techniques such as smudge pots, sprinklers, geotextiles and later pruning.
Chablis Terroir: The Cool Climate and Ancient Soils
Several elements have influenced and still influence the production of wine in the region; the most effective one is the cool continental climate, with harsh winters followed by hot summers, a combination that plays a crucial role each year in determining the quality and quantity of wine produced. It should therefore not be surprising how environmental factors have a significant impact on the vintage variation.
The average rainfall is 650-700mm per year, distributed throughout the season, making the region prone to the spread of mildew and rot. Usually dry and sunny autumns, combined with the wide diurnal range allow the full phenolic maturation of the grapes. The region is also subject to spring frosts and hail, which can cause particularly negative effects on the yield.
Kimmeridgiano vs. Portlandiano: The Sedimentary Secret
The soil in Chablis is unique and is of sedimentary origin. The area was originally below sea level and over the millennia the material that today forms the soil and subsoil has been placed there and is mainly composed of limestone formed in two different eras, which has resulted into two types of soils.
The first type, formed 150 million years ago, is known as Kimmeridgian, consisting of grey marl and limestone, often including fossils of the shell Exogyra virgula. This is mainly found in the vineyards of Chablis, Chablis Premier Cru and Chablis Grand Cru.
The second type, formed in a more recent era, is called Portlandian, a harder soil with little clay and without any fossil. This is typical of the Petit Chablis vineyards.
Appellation Hierarchy: Understanding Petit Chablis to Grand Cru
The Appellation Chablis allows only one grape variety, Chardonnay, and follows a hierarchy based on the location and aspect of the vineyards, with the following in order of increasing quality:
- Petit Chablis
- Chablis
- Chablis Premier Cru
- Chablis Grand Cru
The Petit Chablis vineyards are typically north-facing and located in the flattest areas or at higher altitudes; the Chablis ones are on gentle slopes, and they also face north; while Premier Cru vineyards are on steep slopes facing south or south-east; the only classified Grand Cru vineyard faces south-west, on the right bank of the river Serein.
There are currently 47 Climats (vineyard plots), 40 being designated as Chablis Premier Cru. Each possesses its own distinctive name and identity, details which are frequently displayed on the label.
All wines are dry, typically medium bodied, characterised by high acidity, with no or very little of oak; the latter is used mostly by some producers of Premier and Grand Cru for fermentation and/or maturation.
Due to the harsh climate, Chaptalization is common practice except in warmer years. Usually, the fermentation and maturation of wines is carried out in stainless steel or concrete vats, malolactic conversion is widespread, as well as lees ageing, performed to amplify the texture of the wines.
Chardonnay in Chablis: Purity and Flinty Notes
Chardonnay: this early budding and early ripening white grape variety is well suited to be grown in cold climate areas, but it can be affected by spring frosts. The wine made there typically shows aromas of apple, pear, lemon with subtle flinty notes.
Producer Profile: Simonnet-Febvre
Established in 1840 and now part of the Louis Latour group, Simonnet-Febvre is a benchmark estate producing wines from Petit Chablis to Grand Cru.
The vines used to produce this wine are on average 35 years old and are grown on soils of Kimmeridgian and Portland origin, with the aspect of the vineyards being south and west.
Fermentation takes place in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks (17-21°C); the wine then matures for 12 months on fine lees before bottling and being marketed.
Tasting notes
Chablis Premier Cru A.O.C. – Vaillons – 2019
100% Chardonnay
The name Vaillons Climat is derived from the Latin word vallis meaning “little valley” and is clearly stated on the label. It is located on the left bank of the river Serein and was one of the first Climats to be classified Premier Cru on that side of the river. It is one of the largest Climats among the Premier Cru vineyards, it is a flag-ship Climat, with eight Climats under its banner:
- Les Epinottes, Roncières and Mélinots are on the lower part.
- Les Lys, Sécher, Vaillons, Chatains and Beugnons are located on the highest part of the hill.
The wine immediately captures the eye with its delicate pale lemon colour. On the nose, it delivers a pronounced aroma intensity of a complex bouquet that layers delicate floral notes (blossom, jasmine, acacia, and honeysuckle), over a vibrant core of citrus fruit (lime, lemon, grapefruit). This is further underpinned by nuanced hints of green fruit (apple, pear, quince) and of fleshy stone fruit (nectarine).
The Purity Essence of Chablis
The Chablis Premier Cru ‘Vaillons’ 2019 from Simonnet-Febvre perfectly captures the tension between the region’s challenging, cool climate and its ancient Kimmeridgian and Portlandian soil. Through meticulous modern winemaking techniques, this Chardonnay achieves extreme freshness and purity that cannot be replicated elsewhere. Tasting this wine is experiencing the essence of Chablis.
For more information on the wines tasted, here is the producer’s website: Maison Simonnet-Febvre
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