The Alentejo wine region is in southern Portugal and borders Spain to the east and has the Algarve’s mountains to the south. The region covers about one-third of Portugal’s landmass with a total area under vine of around 23,000ha. Alentejo has always had a strong link with the wine industry because of its cork production; indeed, around half of the world’s cork supply originates from Alentejo’s cork oak trees.
The wines produced in this area can be labelled as Alentejo DOC if the grapes are sourced in one or more of their eight sub-regions. If a wine is made from grapes sourced outside these designated areas, it must be labelled as Vinho Regional Alentejano. Each sub-region has different characteristics, such as altitude, aspects and soil types and all of these can affect the aromas, flavours and structure of the wines.
The Alentejo DOC’s sub-regions are: Borba, Évora, Granja-Amareleja, Moura, Portalegre, Redondo, Reguengos, and Vidigueira.
The Growing Environment
Alentejo is a low-lying region, with extensive plains, scattered with gentle hills and small rivers. The climate here is warm Mediterranean: summers are hot and dry, springs and autumns are sunny, winters are mild. Due to the hot and dry conditions, water management is a critical concern for winegrowers and irrigation practices are widely used.
The soil types range from granitic and schist soils to clay and limestone. Granite can retain heat and contribute to structured wines; it isprominent in the Portalegre sub-region. Schist is a well-drained type of soil that allows the roots to go deep down in the soil looking for water; it is very common in warmer areas. Clay and Limestone are ideal in retaining water and can be found in various parts of the region. Sand is also common and contributes to lighter styles of wine.
The Grape Varieties
Alentejo wine region is famous for being home of a wide range of indigenous grape varieties; many of them can only be found here as they have adapted to the region’s climate and soils and will not thrive elsewhere. The combination of indigenous and international grape varieties offers flexibility and creativity to winemakers.
Antão Vaz: this is a white grape variety that produce full-bodied wines with potential for ageing.
Arinto: this white grape variety is high in acidity and offers citrus flavours. Wines made from Arinto can gain complexity with age.
Roupeiro: a white grape variety used for its aromatic profile, but the wines made from it can age quickly.
Alicante Bouschet: this red-flashed variety has found ideal conditions to thrive and a new home in Alentejo.
Aragonez: this is the most planted variety in Portugal. Aragonez is the traditional name for the black grape variety Tempranillo in Alentejo. The wines made from this variety can be deep-coloured.
Syrah: a red grape variety universally recognised for being capable of ageing due to its acidity and structure. The wines are typically deep ruby in colour, with aromas and flavours of violet, plum, blackberry, black pepper and herbal notes.
Trincadeira: this red grape variety performs well in dry climates and can produce deep-coloured spicy wines but can sometimes show herbaceous flavour if not picked at the right time.
Cabernet Sauvignon: this small-berried thick-skinned red grape is the world’s most planted variety. It produces wines with high levels of tannin with aromas and flavours of violet, blackcurrant and black cherry.
Touriga Franca: this is the second most planted grape variety in Portugal. It is a red grape with consistent yield that offers a wide range of aromas.
The Producer
Esporão winery is a family business founded in Alentejo; in time it has extended its interest into olive oil, craft beers and hospitality industries and has acquired estates in other prestigious Portuguese wine regions, such as Douro Valley and Galicia (Vinho Verde).
Herdade do Esporão, the estate in Alentejo, stretches over a total area of 1,840ha; 441 hectares of vineyards, with around 40 grape varieties, 93 hectares of olive groves, with 4 varieties of olives.
The company since its foundation has aimed to produce wines able to reflect the authenticity of the terroir through organic farming. It was in Herdade do Esporão that, thanks to innovation and commitment to sustainability, they have become front-runners in the organic wine movement. The transition to organic farming has required huge changes in vineyard management practices to safeguarding the environment, such as precision agriculture, cover crops, water and irrigation management, and sexual confusing technique, that nowadayshave become the norm.
The Tasting
Art has always been part of Esporão Reserva since the beginning. Every year a new artist is invited to illustrate the labels, and each work, like the wines, tells a story. The wines tasted were the first ones to be produced by Esporão in1985.
Esporão Reserva Branco – Alentejo DOC – 2021
Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro
The grapes are destemmed and undergo a period of cold maceration before fermentation. After pressing, the must is fermented in temperature controlled stainless-steel tanks (75%) and in new American and French oak barrels (25%). The wine matures for six months on the lees before bottling.
- Look: pale lemon.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of ripe apple, pear, gooseberry, lemon peel, lime, tangerine, grapefruit, peach, nectarine, mango, white pepper, biscuit, toasted bread, vanilla, nutmeg.
- Taste: dry, medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium (+) body, medium (+) flavour intensity and long finish.
- Pairing: monkfish with corn, chanterelles.
Esporão Reserva Tinto – Alentejo DOC – 2020
Alicante Bouschet, Aragonez, Syrah, Trincadeira, Cabernet Sauvignon, Touriga Franca
Each variety is vinified separately. The grapes are destemmed and crushed, then the must is fermented in different vats (stainless steel, concrete and marble), at controlled temperatures. The wine matures for twelve months in American and French oak barrels before bottling. The wine is not released before four months of bottle ageing.
- Look: deep ruby.
- Smell: pronounced aroma intensity of violet, rose, red cherry, red plum, redcurrant, black plum, black cherry, blackberry, black pepper, liquorice, cinnamon, vanilla, coconut, cloves, cedar, chocolate, tobacco.
- Taste: dry, medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, high chalky tannin, full body, pronounced flavour intensity and long finish.
- Pairing: pork fillet, Jerusalem artichoke mash with potato mille-feuille cake and coffee reduction.
For more information on the wines tasted, here is the producer’s website: Esporão