Riesling is a fascinating and versatile grape variety that can produce a wide array of styles of wine: from very crisp, citrus flavoured and bone-dry to luscious, honeyed sweet ones. Typically, Riesling is linked to Germany, but other regions have achieved excellence in crafting wines from this variety: France and Australia have emerged with their unique twist.
Today, we are going to explore more about two wines that come from opposite corners of the world: Alsace in France and Eden Valley in Australia. We are going to compare, contrast, and taste two expressions of this intriguing grape variety which are able to tell a unique story and transfer the terroir into your glass.
We will be able to see first-hand how the same grape variety reacts to different growing environments and winemaking processes and how these affect the aromas, flavours and texture; these differences are also reflected on the price point the wine sells for and its quality.
If you want to learn more about wines from Alsace, please check my articles: “Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer – The Different Shades of White wines from Alsace”, and “Julien Schaal: Mastering the Art of Alsace Grand Cru Riesling”.
The Grape variety
Riesling: this hardy white grape variety is late budding and late ripening; these characteristics make it suitable to be grown in cold climates and withstand harsh winters. Riesling needs a long growing season to ripen fully and needs to be grown in vineyard sites with optimal sunlight exposure and on well-drained soils.
This variety has also high levels of resistance to diseases and can deliver high yields without affecting the quality of the fruit. It is also prone to botrytis, which is why some of the most sought-after, luscious, sweet wines are made from Riesling. Typically, dry wines made from this variety show a hallmark acidity and vibrancy that gives a great ageing potential despite the moderate level of alcohol.
Alsace: A Cool-Climate Haven
Alsace is in the north-east of France, at high latitude; therefore, it enjoys a long and cool growing season, which is ideal for Riesling. The climate is continental with cold winters and hot summers and the rainfall levels are unexpectedly low (the lowest annual rainfall levels in France) because of the protection of the Vosges Mountains on the west of the region that protect it from the worst of the rain.
The vineyards have the Vosges Mountains on the west and the River Rhin on the east. The best vineyards are on steep slopes between 200-250 metres high, but specific high-quality plots can be found at even higher altitudes, even as high as 450-500 metres.
The differences in altitude and aspect, joined with the kaleidoscopic soils of the region (over 20 different types of soils can be found in Alsace), provide ideal conditions to grow different grapes and produce different styles. The land in the plain between the mountains and the river is on deeper and more fertile soil; it is typically used to produce high yielding wines and other crops.
Eden Valley: Australia’s Cool-Climate Gem
Eden Valley is part of the Barossa Zone and is located on the east of the Barossa Valley. It is not actually a valley but rather a succession of rolling hills that are part of the Mount Lofty Ranges, with steep slopes and certain vineyards that can be above 600 metres of altitude.
The cool climate, combined with the exposure of the hilltops to the wind, can create a threat to winegrowing but certain areas are more protected and have ideal condition for the vines to thrive. The level of rainfall is low, around 250mm per year, but the soil here has an excellent water-holding capacity, allowing the growth of the plants during the growing season.
The region is well-known for old-vine planting that offers high levels of fruit concentration. Riesling accounts for nearly one-third of the planted vineyard area. All these features contributed to making a name for Eden Valley in producing cool-climate Riesling.
The Winemaking in Alsace and Eden Valley
In both regions, the winemaking process is focused on preserving the grape’s pure, primary characteristics, and being able to showcase the unique terroir of origin.
Traditionally in Alsace, the fermentation and ageing process takes place in inert containers, such as large oval casks known as foudres. These vats are used every year to produce wine from the same grape variety and because of their age, size and the thick tartrate deposit, that acts as a protective film between the wine and the barrel walls, the flavours are not affected. Nowadays, temperature controlled stainless-steel tanks are the choice for fermentation and maturation, especially when high volumes of wine have to be released at a certain price point.
Alsatian Rieslings are typically dry, with little to no residual sugar. They are medium to full bodied, have medium alcohol and high acidity. They show lemon, grapefruit, and peach aromas complemented by steely notes.
In Eden Valley, temperature controlled stainless-steel vats are the choice for fermentation to preserve the delicate primary aromas of citrus, green apple, and peach. Some examples are made just with free run juice and bottled soon after fermentation. Eden Valley Rieslings are well-known for their bone-dry character and their refreshing high acidity that helps to withstand the time spent in the bottle, allowing potential for ageing. In time, these wines develop more complex aromas of honey, nuttiness, and toast.
The Tasting
Riesling des Chasseurs de Lune – Alsace AOC – 2019 – Bestheim
100% Riesling
Bestheim is a co-operative, resulting from successive mergers of five wineries, that collectively join the effort of over 400 winegrowers, to deliver wines at all levels of quality and prices.
The wine is made from a selection of grapes sourced from vineyards on steep slopes with clay-limestone soil. The fermentation takes place in temperature controlled stainless-steel vats and the wine matures on the lees for more than six months. The wine does not undergo malolactic conversion in order to preserve the primary characteristics.
- Look: medium lemon.
- Smell: medium aroma intensity of jasmine, honeysuckle, lemon, lime, grapefruit, wet stone, bread dough and toast.
- Taste: dry, high acidity, medium alcohol, medium (+) body, medium flavour intensity, medium finish.
- Pairing: coq au Riesling.
Julius – Eden Valley – 2019 – Riesling – Henschke
100% Riesling
Henschke winery is a family run business that developed a reputation for premium Riesling wines in the 1950s from their vineyards in the Eden Valley region.
This wine is named after Julius Henschke, an ancestor of the family; he was a highly acclaimed artist and sculptor recognised for the War Memorial on North Terrace in Adelaide.
The grapes are sourced from a vineyard on sandy loam soil over gravel on a bedrock with patches of clay. The fermentation takes place in temperature controlled stainless-steel tanks; then the wine is bottled as soon as possible to preserve the delicate primary fruit characteristics.
- Look: pale lemon.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of jasmine, lemon, lime, grapefruit, apple, pear, gooseberry, nectarine, peach, wet stones, petrol, ginger, toast.
- Taste: dry, high acidity, medium alcohol, medium body, medium (+) aroma intensity of jasmine, lemon, lime, grapefruit, apple, pear, gooseberry, nectarine, peach, wet stones, petrol, ginger, toast, long finish.
- Pairing: tagliolini with asparagus, rock lobster, shrimp, ginger and basil.
For more information on the wines tasted, here are the producer’s websites: Bestheim | Henschke