The Riesling Grand Cru Kastelberg is a clear example of wine that expresses the terroir and the traditions of Alsace. Amongst producers, that have made a name for themselves in producing expressive and elegant wines, there is Julien Schaal.
Alsace is in the north-east of France; it has the Vosges Mountains to the west and the Rhine River to the east. This region has been contended by France and Germany for centuries, being part of one country or the other with alternate annexations; this history heritage is perceivable nowadays, in wines, food, and culture.
If you want to learn more about wines from Alsace, please check my articles: “Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer – The Different Shades of White wines from Alsace”, and “From France to Australia: Riesling’s Global Journey”.
The Growing Environment
The Alsace climate is continental, with cold winters and warm summers. The Vosges Mountains act as a natural barrier, shielding the region from excessive rainfall and creating a dry microclimate. In fact, on the eastern side the region has only around 600mm of rain per year.
With this level of rainfall and the increasing effects of climate change, summer drought has become a real threat, as irrigation is not allowed in the region, in-line with AOC’s regulations.
Additionally, the warm Föhn wind, raises the temperature which reduces the incidence of fungal diseases, but on the other hand, this could exacerbate the drying effect on the vines. The diurnal range is great, especially on higher sites, as it helps to retain acidity in the grapes and to develop complex aromas.
As Vins Alsace says, the soil is “A mosaic of unique soils,” due to a “geological past that allowed for multitudes of magnificent and varied soils to appear. All the formations are present in Alsace from the Proterozoic eon to the Quaternary period”.
Il Grand Cru Kastelberg
Kastelberg is one of the 51 Grand Cru vineyards in Alsace, located in the municipality of Andlau which stretches for 5.82ha. The vineyard, with a history dating back to the Roman times, is on steep slopes facing south-east and is at an altitude between 240 and 300 metres. The steep slopes guarantee long hours of sunlight interception, but the winegrowers had to build terraces supported by dry-stone walls to grow their vines.
The soil is mainly made of blue schist, a metamorphic rock rarely found in Alsace. This type of soil dries up quickly and allows the vines to grow deep down in search for water from the bedrock, letting the vines thrive even in drought years. In the upper part of the vineyard,there are also some outcrops of granite.
The Grape Variety
Riesling: this late-budding white grape variety is suitable for growing in cold regions; it requires full exposure to the sun and good drainage, as well as a long growing season to ripen fully. The wines are typically high in acidity. The style in Alsace is typically dry with lemon, grapefruit and peach aromas and flavour, as well as a stony/steely character.
The Producer
Julien Schaal’s approach to winemaking is focused on minimal intervention, with the aim of highlighting and showing the quality and unique characteristics of each vineyard site. The entire production range is focused exclusively on wines from the Alsace Grand Cru Appellation and the vineyards are managed with the aim of preserving the soil’s health and the environment biodiversity.
The Tasting
Riesling – Schiste – 2021 – Grand Cru Kastelberg
100% Riesling
The grapes are hand-picked and pressed as whole bunches. The juice is then clarified through settling. The must is fermented using indigenous yeast, in temperature-controlled vats, and the cool fermentation lasts up to three months. The wine does not undergo malolactic conversion; this is in order to preserve the primary aromas and flavours. It is then aged on the lees for several months before release.
Look: pale lemon.
Smell: pronounced aroma intensity of jasmine, blossom, lemon, lime, grapefruit, apple, pear, with delicate notes of wet stones, flint and petrol.
Taste: dry, high acidity, medium alcohol, medium body, pronounced flavour intensity and a long finish.
Pairing: prawn curry.
For more information on the wine tasted, here is the producer’s website: Julien Schaal