The Querce Bettina winery, founded in the 1990s, is located on the south-west slopes of the Municipality of Montalcino. On the 30th November last year, we had the distinct privilege of tasting five vintages of their Brunello di Montalcino during the Life of Wine event in Rome.
The estate’s name is rooted in a late nineteenth-century legend; it is said that an elderly lady named Bettina would sit at the foot of a majestic oak tree, spinning wool and enchanting young shepherds with ancient tales of magic. A figure of mystery with no known origin, she would appear and vanish at will. Though she left a lasting impression on all who met her, the only physical legacy of these encounters was the “Bettina Oak” (Querce Bettina).
The vineyards are located 440 metres above sea level, benefiting from a geological profile of clay, galestro, marl, and limestone, an ideal environment for viticulture. At the turn of the century, 2.5 hectares of Sangiovese Grosso were planted; currently, approximately one hectare is dedicated to Brunello production, with the remainder used for Rosso di Montalcino. The first vintage of Brunello di Montalcino dates to the 2009 vintage.
The vines are trained using the single spurred cordon system, with a planting density of roughly 2.5m between rows and 80cm between individual plants. In the cellar, grapes destined for Brunello undergo fermentation in stainless steel tanks until the completion of the malolactic fermentation. The wine matures in 22-hectolitre Slavonian oak barrels for approximately 36 months for the Brunello and 48 months for the Riserva. After bottling, the wine ages for at least another 12 months before being released. Following bottling, the wine undergoes a minimum of 12 months of further ageing before commercial release.
Let’s now move on to the story of the vertical tasting.
Brunello di Montalcino 2020
The vintage was defined by a hot summer without prolonged heat spikes, punctuated by occasional rain and cool nights that preserved the grape’s acidity. Due to the summer heat and a consequent rapid ripening of the grapes, the harvest was anticipated.
A bright ruby wine in colour that on the nose expressed hints of violet followed by blackberry, plum and cherry jam, finishing with spicy, toasted notes. In the mouth, it had high perceived acidity, with surprisingly soft tannins for such a young sample. The finish was long, with distinct notes of liquorice.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2019
This vintage benefited from spring rainfall, which built essential water reserves, followed by a moderate summer and an excellent September with a high diurnal temperature range. These conditions were ideal for phenolic ripening and the development of aromas.
The wine was ruby in colour, very similar to the previous sample. On the nose, berry and sour cherry dominated, supported by pepper, tobacco, and forest floor. In the mouth, it was distinctive for its high acidity and very present tannins; but also offered a surprise with excellent balance and an important structure that suggested a very long life ahead.
Brunello di Montalcino 2018
A relatively cool and regular vintage with moderate temperatures and well-distributed rainfall. Harvest took place between late September and early October.
The wine was still ruby in colour, and on the nose had floral violet and fruity notes of plum and blackcurrant, with a finish of pepper, mint and liquorice. In the mouth it was less full-bodied than other samples but remarkable for its finesse and elegance. Lively acidity and evident tannins made this wine very pleasant to drink.
Brunello di Montalcino 2017
A challenging, very hot year with below average rainfall. The scorching summer led to rapid ripening and an early harvest in the second week of September.
The wine was garnet in colour, and on the nose it was striking because of ripe fruit, blackberry and blueberry jam, accented by baking spices, camphor and menthol. In the mouth, it was balanced with softer tannins and slightly more restrained acidity. The wine was already well-developed and approaching its full maturity, consistent with the hot vintage.
Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2016
A highly balanced vintage across all phenological stages. A mild winter and rainy spring were followed by a hot summer with high diurnal temperature ranges, allowing for a harmonious ripening.
The wine was garnet in colour with ruby reflections and on the nose, it offered aromas of redcurrant and blackberry jam, followed by tobacco, leather with a eucalyptus finish. On the palate, it was structured, elegant and complex, with a lovely freshness and detectable tannins. This sample showed a great evolutionary path ahead and it will reach its peak in the coming years.
It was a beautiful vertical tasting of Brunello di Montalcino from a winery I did not know. The wines were consistent with the vintages proposed, as well as an expression of the territory. Beyond the legend linked to the name of the winery, these Brunello samples have also proven to be anchored to the expected style and region. The hope is always to be able to taste them again when they have matured further in the bottle.