From Friday 11th May to Monday 13th May 2024, Taste Alto Piemonte was held at the Castello Visconteo Sforzesco in Novara. This event was organised by the Consorzio Tutela Nebbioli Alto Piemonte and offered the opportunity to wine professionals and enthusiasts to expand their knowledge of this wine growing area through walk around wine tastings and masterclasses.
As a side event, there was the photographic exhibition “I volti dell’Alto Piemonte“, that described, by using images, the winemakers of the region.
The Growing Environment
The Alto Piemonte region is an area of hills and vineyards characterised by a continental climate, with high diurnal range, that gives high levels of acidity and intensely fragrant aromas to the wines.
The Monte Rosa Mountain significantly influences the region, as it protects this area from the cold winds coming from the north, while at the same time, the fresh air coming down from the mountain in the evening, as well as ensuring healthy fruit, contributes to a slow and regular ripening of the grapes. Rainfall levels are high, ranging between 800 and 1,500mm on average annually and hailstorms are not a rare phenomenon. The best aspects for the vineyards are south facing, at an altitude of about 300 metres above sea level.
The region is characterised by a remarkable variety of soils. To the west, the soil is made of sediments on alluvial or porphyry subsoil, while continuing eastwards there are more porphyry and volcanic stones. Beyond the river Sesia, there is bright pink colour porphyry that is very poor in humus. In the North, there are moraines with a high concentration of granitic rocks, while in the South, there are more gravels and pebbles.
Grape Varieties and Appellations
The main grape variety of the appellations of Alto Piemonte, for the production of red wine, is Nebbiolo. Other black grape varieties are allowed, either alone or blended, such as Vespolina, Uva Rara, and Croatina. Nebbiolo is also known as Spanna in the provinces of Biella and Vercelli, but other local names are used as well (e.g. Prunet, Picutender).
Nebbiolo: this vigorous black grape variety is early budding and late ripening. In Italy, as well as in Piedmont, it is grown in Valle d’Aosta, Valtellina, Franciacorta and Sardinia. It has very thick skin and small berries. In most cases the clones used in Alto Piemonte are the same as those used in the south of the region, but through careful mass selection, the local genetic heritage has been preserved and developed.
- Boca D.O.C.: Nebbiolo (locally known as Spanna) from 70% to 90%; other varieties such as Vespolina and Uva Rara (a.k.a. Bonarda Novarese) are allowed, either alone or blended, up to 30% maximum.
- Bramaterra D.O.C.: Nebbiolo (locally known as Spanna) from 50% all’80%; other varieties are allowed up to 30% maximum, as well as Vespolina and Uva Rara (a.k.a. Bonarda Novarese), either alone or blended, up to 20% maximum.
- Colline Novaresi D.O.C.: White wine – 100% Erbaluce. Red, Rosé and Novello wines – Nebbiolo minimum 50%, a blend of other regional black grape varieties is also allowed up to 50% maximum. Wines with grape variety indication on the label – minimum 85% of the variety on the label which could be blended with other non-aromatic black grape varieties allowed to be grown in Piedmont.
- Coste della Sesia D.O.C.: White wine – 100% Erbaluce. Red and Rosé wines – without any grape variety on the label minimum 50% Nebbiolo and Barbera (or Vespolina, Croatina or Bonarda) and other non-aromatic black grape varieties allowed to be grown in Piedmont. Wines with grape variety indication on the label – minimum 85% of the variety on the label which could be blended with other non-aromatic black grape varieties allowed to be grown in Piedmont.
- Fara D.O.C.: Nebbiolo (locally known as Spanna) from 50% to 70%; other varieties such as Vespolina and Uva Rara (a.k.a. Bonarda Novarese), either alone or blended, up to 50% maximum. Other varieties are allowed, as long as they do not account for more than 10% of the blend.
- Gattinara D.O.C.G.: Nebbiolo (locally known as Spanna) from 90% to 100% with other varieties such as Vespolina, maximum 4% and Uva Rara (a.k.a. Bonarda di Gattinara), being allowed if they do not account for more than 10% of the blend.
- Ghemme D.O.C.G.: Nebbiolo (locally known as Spanna) minimum 85%; other varieties such as Vespolina and Uva Rara (a.k.a. Bonarda Novarese) are allowed, either alone or blended, up to 15% maximum.
- Lessona D.O.C.: Nebbiolo (locally known as Spanna) minimum 85%; other varieties such as Vespolina and Uva Rara (a.k.a. Bonarda Novarese) are allowed, either alone or blended, up to 15% maximum.
- Sizzano D.O.C.: Nebbiolo (locally known as Spanna) from 50% to 70%; other varieties such as Vespolina and Uva Rara (a.k.a. Bonarda Novarese), either alone or blended, up to 50% maximum. Other varieties are allowed if they do not account for more than 10% of the blend.
- Valli Ossolane D.O.C.: Red wines – Nebbiolo, Croatina or Merlot, either alone or blended, for at least 60% and other non-aromatic black grape varieties for up tp 40%. Whie wines – Chardonnay for at least 60% and other non-aromatic white grape varieties up to 40% of the blend. Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo Superiore – Nebbiolo minimum 85% and other black grape varieties are allowed if they do not account for more than 15% of the blend.
Some of the wines that specifically caught my attention on Sauturday 11 May:
- Bramaterra D.O.C – 2015 – Tenute Sella
- Bramaterra D.O.C – Cascina Cottignano – 2020 – Colombera & Garella
- Bramaterra D.O.C. – 2020 – Antoniotti
- Bramaterra D.O.C. Riserva – Balmi Bioti – 2019 – La Palazzina
- Coste Della Sesia D.O.C. Rosato – Al Posto Dei Fiori – 2023 – Le Pianelle
- Gattinara D.O.C.G. Riserva – Osso San Grato – 2019 – Antoniolo
- Ghemme D.O.C.G. – Vigna Pelizzane – 2016 – Torraccia del Piantavigna
- Lessona D.O.C. – 2018 – Tenute Sella