Writing about Champagne is always a difficult task, but at the same time challenging; in fact, behind the simple word Champagne there are different meanings.
Champagne is an appellation located in the northeast of France, just below the 50th parallel, east of Paris. It is a vast region that measures 150 kilometres from north to south and 120 from west to east and is divided into 5 sub-regions; the area experiences a cold continental climate influenced by the Atlantic Ocean.
Champagne is also the name of the most renowned traditional method sparkling wine in the world, a wine that is the benchmark for producers all over the world, whose name can only be used if produced from grapes grown within the boundaries defined by the appellation.
There are different styles of Champagne, most of them are white, non-vintage and Brut, typically produced from a blend of Pinot Noir, Meunier and Chardonnay, but there are also other styles such as Vintage, Rosé, Blanc de Blancs, Blancs de Noirs, Grand Cru, Premier Cru, Prestige Cuvée that can be combined with each other.
The goal of this tasting was to gain a deeper understanding of some of these styles: in particular two samples of NV (Non-vintage) and one Vintage, Grand Cru and Prestige Cuvée.
Let’s find out the meaning of these terms:
Non-vintage or NV: a wine produced by blending wines of different harvests. This style is used by producers to create their house style. One of the goals of blending wines from different harvests is to reduce the variability between vintages to obtain a product with the same organoleptic profile year after year.
Vintage: the regulation requires that 100% of the grapes used to make the wine are relative to the year shown on the label. In theory, these wines are produced only in the best years, but the choice is up to the producer. These wines show the characteristics of the vintage, while maintaining the style decided by the producer.
Grand Cru: to make this wine, all the grapes must have been grown within the boundaries of the vineyards belonging to Grand Cru villages. The term is often used as “certification of quality”, but the debate on quality in Champagne and its effect on sales prices is still hotly debated.
Prestige Cuvée: this is typically the top wine in the producer’s portfolio. Some producers have several prestige cuvée lines. These wines are usually the result of a strict selection of the best grapes combined with meticulous vinification.
Here is a summary of the characteristics of the grapes used for making the wines tasted:
Chardonnay: a white grape variety particularly suitable for the production of traditional method sparkling wines. Its delicate notes of apple and citrus enhance the aromas generated by the autolytic process rather than contrasting them. It is an early ripening variety and therefore is suitable for cold climates. It is also able to maintain the high levels of acidity and moderate levels of alcohol necessary to produce sparkling wines without any unripe aromas. Yields can be high in the best years without affecting quality.
Pinot Noir: a black grape variety characterised by early bud break and ripening, which make it suitable for cold climates. Yields are lower than those of Chardonnay and the quality can be affected if too high. The skin of the berries is very thin; therefore it is more susceptible to diseases than Chardonnay. In blends it brings body and structure.
Meunier: a black grape variety, often also called Pinot Meunier. It is a mutation of Pinot Noir, characterised by early budding, but delayed compared to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that makes it less subject to spring frosts in the cold Vallée de la Marne. This variety adapts very well even on colder soils (e.g. clay) than the other two varieties. It ripens earlier than Pinot Noir, which can be helpful when harvest is interrupted by rain. Meunier produces fruity wines and contributes to smoothness in blends.
Champagne – Laurent Dauphin Sélection Parcellaire – NV – BRUT
Pinot Noir 46%, Chardonnay 40%, Meunier 14%
- Appearance: pale lemon.
- Nose: medium aroma intensity, lemon, apple, grape, gooseberry, biscuit, bread, bread dough.
- Palate: dry, medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium body, medium flavour intensity, lemon, apple, grape, gooseberry, biscuit, bread, bread dough, medium finish.
- Pairing: vegetable sticks with white cheese sauce.
Champagne Xavier Leconte – Cœur d’Histoire – NV – BRUT
Meunier 100%
Historical cuvée for this producer that enhances the typical variety of the Vallée de la Marne. The fermentation takes place in temperature-controlled stain steel tanks. This is a blend of 50% vintage wine and 50% reserve wine. The wine spends minimum 2 years ageing on the lees. The producer is a Vignerons Indépendants and HVE 3 certificated (Haute Valeur Environnementale).
- Appearance: medium lemon.
- Nose: medium (+) aroma intensity, lemon, peach, apricot, lime, grapefruit, jasmine, grapefruit, cooked fruit biscuit, pastry, bread, bread dough.
- Palate: dry, medium (+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium body, medium (+) flavour intensity, lemon, peach, apricot, lime, grapefruit, jasmine, grapefruit, cooked fruit, biscuit, pastry, bread, bread dough, long finish, creamy mousse.
- Pairing: ravioli in cream sauce.
Produttore: Champagne Xavier Leconte
Champagne – Carte d’Or – Grand Cru – Michel Arnoulds & Fils – 2015 – BRUT
Pinot Noir 50%, Chardonnay 50%
This Champagne Vintage is produced from grapes sourced from the oldest vines of the vineyards in the Verzenay village. The wine spends minimum 6 years ageing on the lees. The producer is HVE 3 certified (Haute Valeur Environnementale).
- Appearance: medium lemon.
- Nose: medium (+) aroma intensity, apple, lemon, pear, grapefruit, nectarine, chalk, biscuit, bread, toasted bread, honey, ginger, caramel.
- Palate: dry, high acidity, medium alcohol, medium body, medium (+) flavour intensity, apple, lemon, pear, grapefruit, nectarine, chalk, biscuit, bread, toasted bread, honey, ginger, caramel, long finish, creamy mousse.
- Pairing: baked turbot fish.
Produttore: Champagne Michel Arnould & Fils