The most famous wine region of Hungary is without doubt Tokaj, named after the homonymous city, located on its southernmost point.
Internationally, the name Tokaj is used to identify the entire wine region, but locals prefer to use another one: Hegyalja, a term that can be translated as “foothills” or “the lower part of the hill”.
Viticulture here has been practiced for over a thousand years, and in time, thanks to their uniqueness, wines from Tokaj have gained acclamation at the royal courts since the seventeenth century, and so much so that, the Sun King Louis XIV conferred on it the title of “Vinum Regum – Rex Vinorum“, or “Wine of Kings – King of Wines”.
When Hungary became a communist country in 1945, wine production was more focused on quantity than quality, but compared to other countries of the communist bloc a greater number of vineyards remained in private hands. Private ownership was an essential element for a faster return to quality production and the introduction of new styles after the fall of the regime in 1989.
From the 1990s onwards, there has also been a greater involvement of foreign companies which, with huge investments, have contributed further to the revival of Hungarian viticulture.
In 2002, Tokaj-Hegyalja was awarded UNESCO Historic Cultural Landscape, thanks to its centuries-old wine tradition and cultural landscape inextricably linked to the production of wine.
Today, Tokaj-Hegyalja is one of the most visited wine tourism destinations in Hungary because of its stunning landscape, its cellar carved into volcanic rocks, and of course, the quality and diversity of its wines.
Tips
The name of the region Tokaj-Hegyalja has a different spelling compared to the name of the wine, Tokaji, the –i at the end means the place of origin.
Tokaji is also a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO).
The Growing Environment
Tokaj-Hegyalja si located in the north-east of Hungary, at the border between Hungary and Slovakia, on the foothills of the Zemplén mountains. It is rewarded mainly for sweet wines made from grapes infected by Botrytis Cinerea.
The volcanic activity that developed about 15 million years ago has given a very varied soil; the most common type is the Nyirok, red coloured clay soil not very permeable, that produces powerful wines with great structure. In the south-west of the region there is more Loess, a very fine sediment deposited by the winds that is made of clay and silica; it is porous and permeable and produces wines of remarkable elegance and finesse.
The climate is moderate continental with cold winters, warm summers and long and dry autumns.
Average year rainfall is about 500-600mm; it falls mainly during the growing season, but irrigation is not allowed.
The forests on the top of the mountains protect the vineyards from the worst of the northern cold winds. The best plots are on the foothills facing south or south-east to avoid spring frosts and maximising the sunlight interception, also considering the high latitude of the region (48-49°N).
River Tisza and Bodrog flood regularly. In autumn the humidity resulting from the flooding produces morning fogs, that combined with the sunny afternoons create the ideal conditions for the development of Botrytis Cinerea.
The Grape Varieties
In Tokaji PDO there are six permitted grape varieties, the most important are:
Furmint: this late ripening white grape variety requires a sunny and long growing season to fully ripen, but despite this, it retains high levels of acidity. This grape is versatile, and is used for producing quality wines, both dry and sweet. It is thick-skinned but is prone to Botrytis Cinerea attacks, a feature that makes it the primary choice for Aszú wine production.
Hárslevelű: this white grape variety plays a secondary role in blends, bringing aromas of peach and orange blossom. It is more and more used for producing single varietal wines, both dry and sweet.
Sárga Muskotály (Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains): this aromatic white grape variety gives floral notes to the blends; it is more and more used to produce mostly single varietal dry wines.
The Wine Styles
Here is some further information about the wine style tasted.
Tokaji Aszú: Aszú is the Hungarian word for grapes that have been infected by Botrytis Cinerea and have shrivelled on the vine. The berries are hand-picked individually, over several passes through the vineyard, as they reach the desired level of shrivelling and are then stored until required.
Normal pressing wouldn’t be effective to extract the juice from these berries, so the grapes are macerated in must, fermented must or base wine, it depends on the desired style of wine.
Aszú wine is rare, and it is not made every year; it is only done so if the quality of the crop is suitable for the production of this style of wine (i.e. development of Botrytis Cinerea, no grey rot spread, etc.)
These PDO regulations require that the wine has to be stored for a minimum of 18 months in oak. Hungarian oak from the Zamplén mountains is typically the preferred choice both for fermentation and maturation. Traditional barrels for maturation are 136 litres (gönci), but nowadays some producers are choosing larger formats.After oak ageing, the wine is bottled into the traditional, clear glass, 0.5 litre bottles.
Aszú wines are classified depending on their level of sweetness, using the Puttonyos scale. In 2014, the minimum level of residual sugar to label a wine Aszú was increased to 120g/l (the equivalent to the previous minimum for 5 Puttonyos). Aszú wines can be labelled as 5 Puttonyos or 6 Puttonyos if the residual sugar is above 150 g/l, but this is not mandatory.
Tokaji Aszúeszencia: this style was introduced as an official quality level in the 1970s as a transition between Aszú and Eszencia as it must have a residual sugar higher than 180 g/l. Because of the name, consumers often get confused with the Eszencia, so the Hungarian authorities decided that the 2009 vintage would be the last one that could show it on the label.
Tokaji Eszencia: this is the most valuable and rarest style, made from small volumes of free run juice from Aszú berries. The amount of sugar in the free run juice is so high that the yeast can take years to ferment; the wine reaches a low level of alcohol. The minimum residual sugar level is 450 g/l. These wines have very high acidity and a syrup-like texture that allow them to age for a very long time.
The Producer
Matyisák-Vízkeleti Pincészet was founded by Gabor Matyisák and his wife in 2010. The vineyards stretch for 1.5 hectares in the municipality of Tarcal, well known for its Loess soil.
The winery is a family-run business and from the beginning has aimed to produce dry and sweet wines in an artisanal way, with an identity style that reflects the traditional values of the region, without compromising on quality.
Although the Aszú wines have evolved since the 2000s, turning towards a leaner, fresh and fruity style, the winery has decided to maintain a link with the traditional way of production ageing its wines in barrels and bottles for longer than what was established by the regulations before being released.
The Tasting
Tokaji Aszú – 2000
100% Furmint
The 2000 vintage was warm, with ideal conditions for Botrytis development that resulted in high quality grapes. Sugar: 145 g/l.
- Look: medium amber.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of orange blossom, orange peel, tangerine, mango, dried apricot, preserved peach, honey, candied pineapple, almond.
- Taste: sweet, medium (+) acidity, low alcohol, medium (+) body, medium (+) flavour intensity, long finish.
- Pairing: perfect to pair with itself or you could try some blue cheese (Stilton).
Tokaji Aszú – 6 Puttonyos – 1999
100% Furmint
The 1999 vintage experienced heavy rains, despite this, the quality of the Aszú berries was exceptional and the grey rot didn’t spread. Sugar: 202 g/l.
- Look: light brown.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of orange blossom, orange peel, mango, dried apricot, preserved peach, honey, candied pineapple, caramel, raisin, dried fig, hazelnut.
- Taste: sweet, high acidity, low alcohol, medium (+) body, medium (+) flavour intensity, long finish.
- Pairing: perfect to pair with itself or you could try some blue cheese (Bleu d’Auvergne).
Tokaji Aszúeszencia – 2008
100% Furmint
The 2008 vintage was like that of the 2000, a warm summer that allowed the grapes to reach ideal maturation and to be affected by Botrytis Cinerea. Sugar: 221 g/l.
- Look: deep amber.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of orange blossom, orange peel, tangerine, mango, dried apricot, preserved peach, honey, candied pineapple, raisin, caramel, hazelnut, dried herbs.
- Taste: sweet, high acidity, low alcohol, medium (+) body, medium (+) flavour intensity, long finish.
- Pairing: perfect to pair with itself or you could try some blue cheese (Roquefort).
Tokaji Eszencia – 2008
100% Furmint
The 2008 vintage was like that of the 2000, a warm summer that allowed the grapes to reach ideal maturation and to be affected by Botrytis Cinerea. Considering the hard work behind the Eszencia production method, only 100 bottles of this wine were produced. Sugar: 565 g/l.
- Look: medium brown.
- Smell: pronounced aroma of peach, mango, almond, walnut, hazelnut, candied fruit, honey, dates, figs, caramel, tobacco, coffee, and hints of dry herbs.
- Taste: sweet, high acidity, low alcohol, full body. Pronounced flavour intensity with a luscious texture. Never ending finish with all the flavours that linger for a dramatic amount of time on the middle-palate.
- Pairing: perfect to pair with itself or you could try some cassata siciliana.
This Tokaji Eszencia was a truly unique experience, the absolute maximum we can get from the grapes. A wine with extraordinary flavour and aroma concentration and complexity.
Any wine enthusiasts should aim to taste at least one of these outstanding wines to expand their knowledge about wine.
For more information on the wines tasted, here is the producer’s website: Matyisák–Vízkeleti Pincészet