In the Greek Islands, winemaking has always played a pivotal role for their economies; it is a tradition and an integral part of the culture of these islands, especially the ones in the Aegean Sea which are home to a wide range of indigenous grape varieties.
The most famous Greek wine producing region, especially in foreign markets, is one of these islands, Santorini. It is recognised for its dry and sweet P.D.O. wines made from Assyrtiko. The island is what is left from a volcano which, during its last major eruption in 1,500BCE, collapsed resulting in the central submerged crater (a.k.a. caldera) and the eastern rim of the original volcano that remained emerged.
The Growing Environment
Santorini enjoys a typical Mediterranean climate with long, very hot summers and short, mild winters. The heat in summer is moderated by strong winds and cool breezes from the sea. The dominant wind, called Meltemi, blows from the north during the growing season, and is beneficial for the vines, as it cools down the temperatures, slows down the ripening of the grapes, and prevents the spread of diseases.
The vineyards in Santorini are found in the southern and southwestern part of the island, on volcanic soil with low levels of organic matter and very low water-holding capacity. Because of these features, phylloxera never spreads on the island, so the vines are not grafted into American rootstock, making the vineyards of Santorini one of the oldest in Greece, In fact, it is estimated that some vines have roots and trunks that are over 400 years old.
Rainfall levels in Santorini are particularly low with the little rain falling mostly during winter, and it is not completely unusual that the growing season can be dry. The vines can survive and have adequate water supply thanks to the little rain and the humidity that comes from the fog which rises from the caldera in the morning and from the morning dew.
Vineyard Management
To protect the vines from the Meltemi’s strength and to prevent sunburn, the island’s winegrowers have developed, over time, a unique training system known as “kouloura,” or “ambelia” which is low to the ground in a basket shape, typically in a hollow, where the fruit is grown inside the basket and the leaves are adjusted to shade from the sunlight. This traditional training system also has another advantage, it helps to retain the moisture in the morning.
Due to the very limited amounts of water available on the island, vine densities are very low, typically less than 2,500 vines per hectare; this combined with the very infertile soil reduces the vigour and yield of the vines. Therefore, it should not be a surprise that P.D.O. Santorini has the lowest permitted maximum yields in Greece: 60hl/ ha, although, in reality they are lower than that, as low as 15hl/ha from the oldest vines.
Grape Varieties
Assyrtiko: an indigenous white grape variety originally from Santorini, but it has spread all over Greece. It is highly adaptable and can grow successfully in hot and dry conditions, as it retains high levels of acidity when ripe. Its high acidity balances the high alcohol and allows wines to age well. It is also the ideal grape variety for making sweet wines.
Aidani: this white grape variety is used as the perfect blending partner of Assyrtiko, as it provides smoothness and floral aromas to the blend without affecting the texture of the wine. It shows medium body, medium alcohol, and medium acidity. Winemakers are experimenting its potential in varietal wines.
Athiri: this is an ancient white grape variety used for centuries to make dry white wines. It adapts very well to dry and warm conditions. The wines show medium aroma and flavour intensity of citrus and green fruit, have medium alcohol and are medium bodied.
Mandilaria (a.k.a. Amorgiano; Pariano; Vaftra; Koundoura Black; Mandilari): this black grape variety is mainly used as a blending partner in red, rosé and sweet wines, adding personality. Varietal wines made from this variety are rare and are typically deep ruby in colour, show medium (+) aroma and flavour intensity of red and black fruit and tertiary notes (e.g. leather), and are medium bodied with medium (+) firm tannin.
The Winery
Venetsanos winery overlooks the stunning caldera of Santorini. It is long traditional family run business that today manages 15 hectares of vineyards, mostly cultivated with Assyrtiko, but Athiri, Aidani, Platani, Mavrotragano, and Mandilaria, are the other indigenous grape varieties grown.
The winery was built in 1947 and became the first business focused winery on the island. Its structural design, allowed the use gravity in the winemaking process, saving energy at a time when electricity and other energy sources were limited.
The Tasting
Santorini – P.D.O. Santorini – 2023
100% Assyrtiko
After a short and cold maceration, the grapes are pressed, and the must is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks at 12-13°C. The wine is then aged on the lees for 4 months with light bâtonnage.
- Look: medium lemon with green reflections.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of white flowers, lemon peel, lime, bitter orange, pear, fennel and wet pebbles.
- Taste: dry, high acidity, medium body, medium alcohol, medium (+) flavour intensity, medium (+) finish.
- Pairing: Chloro cheese (Santorini’s fresh cheese).
Anagallis – P. G.I. Cyclades – 2022
50% Aidani, 30% Assyrtiko, 20% Mandilaria
After a short and cold maceration, the grapes are pressed, and the must is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. The wine is then aged on the lees for 4 months with light bâtonnage.
- Look: medium pink-orange.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of rose, strawberry, cherry, raspberry, pomegranate and grapefruit.
- Taste: off-dry, high acidity, low delicate tannin, medium (+) body, medium alcohol, medium (+) flavour intensity, medium (+) finish with a light spritz.
- Pairing: ziti with Portobello mushrooms, caramelised onions, and goat’s cheese.
Mandilaria – P.G.I. Cyclades – 2020
100% Mandilaria
The grapes are destemmed and after 4-5 days of maceration, the must is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. 60% of the wine matures in 225 litre barriques and the other 40% in stainless steel vats; it is then blended and bottled.
- Look: medium ruby with purple reflections.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of violet, carnation flower, bitter orange, strawberry, red cherry, redcurrant, plum, cooked cherry, fig, vanilla, smoke, charred wood, and chocolate.
- Taste: dry, medium (+) acidity, medium firm tannin, medium body, high alcohol, medium (+) flavour intensity, medium (+) finish.
- Pairing: braised pork with prunes and orange.
Nykteri – P.D.O. Santorini – 2022
95% Assyrtiko, 3% Aidani, 2% Athiri 2%.
After short pre-fermentation maceration, the grapes are pressed and the must is put into 225, 300, and 500 litre French oak barrels, where the fermentation process takes place for a better integration of the oak aromas and flavours. The wine then matures for 4 months, in contact with the fine lees,with bâtonnage.
- Look: medium lemon with gold reflections.
- Smell: medium (+) aroma intensity of white flowers, magnolia, lemon, lime, apple, pear, thyme, sage, wet pebbles, vanilla, smoke, charred wood, roasted nuts, and flint.
- Taste: dry, high acidity, medium (+) body, medium alcohol, medium (+) flavour intensity, long finish.
- Pairing: Melitzanosalata.
Nykteri – P.D.O. Santorini – 2016
95% Assyrtiko, 3% Aidani, 2% Athiri 2%.
After a short pre-fermentation maceration, the grapes are pressed and the must is fermented in 225, 300, and 500 litre French oak barrels for a better integration of the oak aromas and flavours. The wine than matures for 4 months, in contact with the fine lees, with bâtonnage.
- Look: deep gold.
- Smell: pronounced aroma intensity of yellow flowers, lemon, lime, grapefruit, apple, pear, quince, pineapple, nectarine, honey, thyme, dill, wet pebbles, vanilla, smoke, cedar, charred wood, hazelnut, and flint.
- Taste: dry, high acidity, medium (+) body, medium alcohol, medium (+) flavour intensity, long finish.
- Pairing: baked goat’s cheese and mushroom risotto.
Vinsanto – P.D.O. Santorini – N.V.
70% Assyrtiko, 25% Aidani 25%, 5% Athiri
Overripe grapes are sundried for a period of 10 days and then destemmed and pressed. The juice ferments slowly for more than 2 months in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. After fermentation, the naturally sweet wine is matured in oak barrels for a minimum of 2 years.
- Look: medium amber.
- Smell: pronounced aroma intensity of dried apricot, raisin, fig, caramel, honey, vanilla, chocolate, hazelnut, ginger and coffee.
- Taste: sweet, high acidity, medium body, medium alcohol, medium (+) flavour intensity, long finish.
- Pairing: salted dark chocolate caramel truffles.
For more information on the wines tasted, here is the producer’s website: Venetsanos Winery